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How Many Bee Stings Would it Take to Kill You?

May 24, 2019 Eric Miller
Chemical Components of Insect Venoms

Chemical Components of Insect Venoms

I’ll go out on a limb and say that most beekeepers have considered the potential danger of their hobby at some point. We’ve heard tales about things going awry during an inspection, including the story about the long-time beek in England that died from one well-placed sting to the jugular. But most of us don’t worry excessively about our bees doing real harm to us, and I suppose those who do eventually take up watercolors or some other relatively nonthreatening pursuit. I came across this very interesting infographic on CompoundChem.com., which provides a lot of interesting facts on the venom of many insects, including our beloved honey bees.

But hypothetically, if we suit up in shorts and a t-shirt and get into a hot hive—or one that’s Africanized—just how many stings could we endure before we succumbed to them? The key piece of info on the above graphic is that a lethal dose of venom from a honey bee is 2.8 mg per kilogram of body weight. From that, we can do some figurin’…

  • Average weight of an adult male in North America: 178 lbs (80.7 kg)

  • Lethal dose required for average male: 80.7 kg X 2.7 mg = 218 mg

  • Approximate amount of venom in one honey bee sting: 59 micrograms

  • Stings per lethal dose: 218 mg / .059 mg = 3695 stings

So given a little bit of data, we conclude it would take 3695 honey bee stings to kill a 178 lb adult male. I personally have below-average weight (155 lbs), making my magic number 3217 stings. The most stings I’ve gotten in a single sitting is around 20-30, so something would have to go terribly wrong for me to reach that critical number. But I’m sure horrible things start to happen to the human body well before the lethal dose, and there’s that story of the British beekeeper that died from one well-placed sting…all things considered, I think I’ll keep wearing a veil.

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Painted Hive Bricks

April 26, 2019 Eric Miller
When the green side of the brick is facing up, I know the hive was in good shape the last time it was inspected

When the green side of the brick is facing up, I know the hive was in good shape the last time it was inspected

This old nuc cover serves as a legend for my painted brick system

This old nuc cover serves as a legend for my painted brick system

Like most beekeepers, I keep a journal to document my hive inspections. I also have a white board where I outline follow-up actions for each of my hives. Those methods of documentation are great, but neither allows me to look out over my bee yard and quickly know each hive’s status. To fill this gap, I bought a couple dozen construction bricks and six different colors of spray paint. I painted each brick’s six sides with a different color, and came up with a simple system to show the basic status of my hives.

There are two overall categories to my system—queenless and queenright. Different colors distinguish between a queenless hive that is actively raising a new queen (yellow), and one that shows no signs of building queen cells (red). For queenright hives, I’ve got colors to indicate whether they’re doing well and need minimal attention (green), threatening to swarm and need to be split (orange), or need to be treated based on the time of year or recent mite tests (blue). The last color is black, and would sadly be displayed on a deadout.

This hive needs to be split soon

This hive needs to be split soon

This system is very cheap—the bricks were around 60 cents each and you can often find inexpensive paint on the return rack at home improvement stores. I’m not advocating to replace beekeeping journals with painted bricks, because it’s still a good idea to detail your actions and observations in writing. But for a reasonable price and little effort, you can use painted bricks to quickly scan your hives and get a pretty good idea of how your bees are fairing.

Swarm Traps Deployed

March 23, 2019 Eric Miller
A swarm trap hung in a tree

A swarm trap hung in a tree

We’re experiencing Fonzie-like weather right now—cool, but not harshly cold. Cool enough to change the song on a jukebox with the snap of a finger, but still warm enough to take full responsibility when it burns down Arnold’s diner. (Okay, suppressing my desire now to make this whole thing a Happy Days reference.) What I’m trying to say is that I can’t comfortably do full hive inspections because it’s still topping out in the 40s. But on sunny days this week my colonies were bringing in a lot of pollen, presumably from blooming maple trees. That new-found abundance of pollen makes me worry that some of the stronger colonies could already be thinking about swarming. So before their scout bees settle on a tree cavity, I went ahead and put out a couple swarm traps a few weeks early. I’ve already seen bees sizing them up, so I’m glad I hung them few weeks earlier than normal this year. The downside to putting them out early is that the empty hives tend to attract other bugs, so they may not be pristinely clean during prime swarm season in May; I’m counting on the bees being mostly undeterred by a woodroach or two. Putting them out early also bears a small financial cost, because every week or two I’ll spray a little Swarm Commander into the entrances—not a huge cost, but it may double my yearly expense for swarm trap bait.

I’ve posted before about how I build swarm traps. I’ve had good success with these, saving me a few lost colonies. I’ve also seen at least one swarm ignore these traps and fly into the woods never to be seen by me again…breaking my heart the way Fonzie did to so many ladies in poodle skirts.

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If Honey Were Firewood

February 18, 2019 Eric Miller
36 lbs of firewood—about the same amount of energy a honey bee colony uses each winter

36 lbs of firewood—about the same amount of energy a honey bee colony uses each winter

How many cords of firewood would bees need to survive the winter? This sounds like a dumb question because it is a dumb question. I’m going to ask it anyway because I’m curious.

Kevin Inglin recently discussed the British thermal units (BTUs) available in honey on his podcast, and it got me thinking about the a colony’s winter honey burn in comparison to my own winter firewood usage. Kevin mentioned 4,400 BTUs per pound of honey—I couldn’t find a source for that number, so I had to use a different one. According to the USDA, honey has 304 calories per 100 grams. There are 454 grams in a pound, so this equates to 1,380 calories per pound of honey. Converting calories to BTUs reveals there are 5476 BTUs of stored energy in each pound of honey.

Meanwhile, the white oak I predominantly burn in my woodstove has an available heat value of about 6,930 BTUs per pound, according the figures on this University of Illinois Extension table.

My heating is far less efficient than a honey bee colony’s

My heating is far less efficient than a honey bee colony’s

Honey bees might go through about 40-50 pounds of honey in a winter; the honey provides nutrition to individual bees, for sure, but it’s also the fuel for generating heat to keep the cluster from freezing in cold weather. The exact amount of honey needed to overwinter is arguable and highly variable, but most beekeepers in northern climates try to have at least 40-50 pounds of honey on each hive going into the winter. So let’s use 45 pounds as a colony’s winter honey consumption. There are 246,420 BTUs in those 45 pounds of honey—about the same stored energy as 36 pounds of my firewood. (For context, the picture above shows 36 pounds of firewood.) At 4,200 pounds of seasoned white oak per cord, the bees are surviving on 0.8% of a cord each winter. So it would take 117 colonies to burn through the equivalent of a single cord of firewood. Sounds pretty efficient considering I go through a few cords each winter myself.

But which of us is really making the best use of our heating energy? Well, if an overwintering honey bee colony weights 10 pounds and burns the equivalent of 36 pounds of white oak, it’s using 3.6 pounds of cordwood per pound of colony. Meanwhile, my combined household weight is around 280 pounds, and we’re burning through 12,600 pounds of white oak, thereby using 45 pounds of cordwood per pound of family members. So the bees are 1250% more efficient with their heating than I am, and that’s not even taking into account that my body is generating its heat from food, independent of the firewood I use to warm my home.

So why does this matter? It doesn’t really. But it’s still fun knowing.

Stacked close to the entrance for convenience

Stacked close to the entrance for convenience

Migrants: Honey Bees in the Almond Trees

February 2, 2019 Eric Miller
Bee hives moved into the almond fields in California’s Central Valley

Bee hives moved into the almond fields in California’s Central Valley

As I drove north through California last week, I witnessed the most symbiotic relationship in modern agriculture—white bee hives peppering the green-and-brown almond groves that have taken over the Central Valley. Thousands of hives had already been moved into the almonds, perhaps some of them overwintering there, and thousands more will follow. This migration is in anticipation of California’s massive almond bloom in late February. I’m not sure how well this is known outside of almond an beekeeping circles, but each almond you pop into your mouth has likely been midwifed by a honey bee.

Almond growers need about two colonies of bees for each of their one million acres, so beekeepers need to have two million hives in the Central Valley for the February through March bloom period. That’s about 3/4 of the total honey bee population in the United States. Let that sink in—right now a vast majority of America’s honey bees are in the almond groves. It seems the easy thing would be to set up massive apiaries in almond country and keep bees there year-round. But driving through the area it’s clear why this won’t work—there are, ironically, too many almonds. During the 11 months of the year when there are no blossoms on the almond trees, the bees would go hungry. It’s the same reason the almonds can’t be pollinated by native species—their populations are nowhere close to adequate to touch each flower. It’s a sad side effect of monoculture at this huge scale, and I suspect it leads to a dearth of forage and habitat for all types of animals, not just honey bees. But it’s the reality we’ve created, so commercial beekeepers truck in their hives year after year to satisfy humanity’s swollen demand for almonds.

White bee hives sitting between newly planted and mature almond trees

White bee hives sitting between newly planted and mature almond trees

The going rate for a hive is probably north of $190 this year, or about $380 million for the entire pollination. Believe it or not, this is more than the $320 million US beekeepers make selling honey (mostly due to depressed prices caused by China flooding the world with cheap “honey”). That’s a big incentive to pack up your hives and send them west. How do almond growers afford this? Well, at current market rates of $3 per pound, their combined annual revenue is over $5 billion. So the cost of pollination—while it’s been climbing—isn’t sending growers to the poor house.

This co-dependence comes with great risk. The difficulty we’ve had keeping bees alive over the last decade has no doubt struck fear into the hearts of almond growers. It’s no surprise, given the stakes, that a lot of money has been thrown at helping “save the bees” from pests like varroa mites. A multi-billion dollar industry needs bees to support its production. But it works both ways. Big beekeepers are so dependent on payments from almond pollination that a disruption would remove much of their incentive to keep so many colonies—or even their ability to stay in business at all. The near-term outlook is pretty good for both US almond growers and beekeepers, but with our almonds concentrated in a single area, the industry seems vulnerable to things like disease, climate change, and natural disasters. It’s also easy to imagine another country might have its own plans to reduce the world’s reliance on California almonds (looking at you again, China).

For now, commercial beekeepers can count on big checks from pollination, and almond growers can count on even bigger checks from food processors and exporters. But there could be a shake-up coming in our lifetimes (did I mention many of the almond trees now being planted are self-pollinating?). This could ultimately lead to a drastic decline in our honey bee population, similar to what happened after World War II when the government stopped subsidizing beekeepers. I haven’t decided yet if this would be a good or bad thing…while I’m not a huge fan of large-scale commercial beekeeping, the demise of those operations would greatly reduce money for things like honey bee advocacy, habitat preservation, scientific research, and development of bee-related products. Arguably, it could also improve the health of what would remain of the bee population by putting an end to the mass migration into a concentrated area each year, where pests and diseases are shared between colonies that would otherwise never be in contact. In the meantime, I’ll try to keep my homegrown line of bees healthy and happy, my tiny little bit of land pollinator-friendly, and my honey flowing.

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Previous Posts

  • 2023
    • Dec 24, 2023 Should I Wrap My Hives for Winter?
    • Jan 2, 2023 Can Hobby Beekeepers Make Money?
  • 2022
    • Jun 18, 2022 The Impossible Task of Putting on Gloves with Sweaty Hands
    • Apr 17, 2022 Habitat, Habitat, Habitat
  • 2021
    • Dec 5, 2021 Best Gifts for Beekeepers, 2021
    • Sep 26, 2021 Why I Like Seeing Mites in My Hives
    • Jul 31, 2021 How to Extract Honey
    • Jun 13, 2021 Knowing When to Pull Honey Supers
    • Apr 11, 2021 Improving the Odds of Winter Survival
    • Mar 13, 2021 Oxalic Acid Approved for Use With Honey Supers
    • Jan 23, 2021 Your Beekeeping Calendar
  • 2020
    • Nov 21, 2020 Creating a Native Flower Garden
    • Oct 17, 2020 Best Gifts for Beekeepers, 2020
    • Aug 29, 2020 Beekeeping as a Gateway to Conservationism
    • Jun 13, 2020 Moving a Swarm into a Nearby Hive
    • May 3, 2020 Easy Solar Wax Melter
    • Apr 30, 2020 Invasion of the Asian Giant Hornet
    • Mar 18, 2020 A Quarantined Beekeeper
    • Feb 2, 2020 Skunk Fence
  • 2019
    • Dec 16, 2019 Easy Honey Bee Feeding Stations
    • Nov 17, 2019 Is Honey Vegan?
    • Nov 2, 2019 Best Gifts for Beekeepers, 2019
    • Oct 11, 2019 Mite Bomb!
    • Aug 11, 2019 Beekeeping is Backbreaking Work
    • Jun 15, 2019 Tracking Bloom Dates for Better Beekeeping
    • May 24, 2019 How Many Bee Stings Would it Take to Kill You?
    • Apr 26, 2019 Painted Hive Bricks
    • Mar 23, 2019 Swarm Traps Deployed
    • Feb 18, 2019 If Honey Were Firewood
    • Feb 2, 2019 Migrants: Honey Bees in the Almond Trees
    • Jan 5, 2019 Making Beeswax Candles
  • 2018
    • Nov 30, 2018 Best Gifts for Beekeepers, 2018
    • Nov 12, 2018 Keeping Entrances Free of Snow
    • Oct 20, 2018 Controlling Hive Moisture in the Winter
    • Sep 29, 2018 Goldenrod: Flower of Last Resort?
    • Aug 18, 2018 Are Wild Bees Healthier Than Kept Bees?
    • Jul 21, 2018 Honey is Thirsty
    • Jul 4, 2018 How to Split a Hive (Or Raise a Queen in a Queenless Colony)
    • May 31, 2018 The Sweetest of Clovers
    • May 17, 2018 How to Spot a Honey Flow
    • May 5, 2018 Having a Plan
    • Apr 28, 2018 Deep Deep vs Deep Medium
    • Apr 21, 2018 Specialists
    • Apr 5, 2018 Red Handed
    • Mar 24, 2018 How Bees Fly in Cold Weather
    • Mar 13, 2018 Survivor
    • Mar 2, 2018 Bee Smart Feeder
    • Feb 20, 2018 Catching Bees with a Swarm Trap
    • Feb 18, 2018 Skunk at the Bee Hive
    • Jan 27, 2018 Diagnosing a Winter Dead Out
    • Jan 21, 2018 Horrible Decision Yields Horrible Results
    • Jan 11, 2018 Rotten
    • Jan 11, 2018 Alive
  • 2017
    • Dec 29, 2017 Making Mead
    • Dec 26, 2017 First Test of My Bee Hive Snow Visors
    • Dec 22, 2017 Uh Oh...
    • Dec 15, 2017 A Rafter of Turkeys
    • Dec 8, 2017 Cold Fondant
    • Dec 1, 2017 Bee Paralysis Virus and What I'm Doing About It
    • Nov 25, 2017 Bees in a Construction Zone
    • Nov 18, 2017 Trees for Bees
    • Nov 13, 2017 Butt in the Air, Beekeeper Beware
    • Nov 8, 2017 We Like Our Animals Furry
    • Nov 7, 2017 Total Mite Load Recalculation
    • Nov 7, 2017 Supplemental Feeding
    • Nov 7, 2017 Counting Mite Falls
    • Nov 7, 2017 MiteCalculator.com Featured on Popular Beekeeping Podcast
    • Nov 7, 2017 Winterizing With Snow Visors
    • Nov 7, 2017 Two-Wheeled Honey Deliveries
    • Nov 7, 2017 Bees and Water
    • Nov 7, 2017 Storing Used Frames
    • Nov 7, 2017 Bees Working Cosmos Flowers

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