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Migrants: Honey Bees in the Almond Trees

February 2, 2019 Eric Miller
Bee hives moved into the almond fields in California’s Central Valley

Bee hives moved into the almond fields in California’s Central Valley

As I drove north through California last week, I witnessed the most symbiotic relationship in modern agriculture—white bee hives peppering the green-and-brown almond groves that have taken over the Central Valley. Thousands of hives had already been moved into the almonds, perhaps some of them overwintering there, and thousands more will follow. This migration is in anticipation of California’s massive almond bloom in late February. I’m not sure how well this is known outside of almond an beekeeping circles, but each almond you pop into your mouth has likely been midwifed by a honey bee.

Almond growers need about two colonies of bees for each of their one million acres, so beekeepers need to have two million hives in the Central Valley for the February through March bloom period. That’s about 3/4 of the total honey bee population in the United States. Let that sink in—right now a vast majority of America’s honey bees are in the almond groves. It seems the easy thing would be to set up massive apiaries in almond country and keep bees there year-round. But driving through the area it’s clear why this won’t work—there are, ironically, too many almonds. During the 11 months of the year when there are no blossoms on the almond trees, the bees would go hungry. It’s the same reason the almonds can’t be pollinated by native species—their populations are nowhere close to adequate to touch each flower. It’s a sad side effect of monoculture at this huge scale, and I suspect it leads to a dearth of forage and habitat for all types of animals, not just honey bees. But it’s the reality we’ve created, so commercial beekeepers truck in their hives year after year to satisfy humanity’s swollen demand for almonds.

White bee hives sitting between newly planted and mature almond trees

White bee hives sitting between newly planted and mature almond trees

The going rate for a hive is probably north of $190 this year, or about $380 million for the entire pollination. Believe it or not, this is more than the $320 million US beekeepers make selling honey (mostly due to depressed prices caused by China flooding the world with cheap “honey”). That’s a big incentive to pack up your hives and send them west. How do almond growers afford this? Well, at current market rates of $3 per pound, their combined annual revenue is over $5 billion. So the cost of pollination—while it’s been climbing—isn’t sending growers to the poor house.

This co-dependence comes with great risk. The difficulty we’ve had keeping bees alive over the last decade has no doubt struck fear into the hearts of almond growers. It’s no surprise, given the stakes, that a lot of money has been thrown at helping “save the bees” from pests like varroa mites. A multi-billion dollar industry needs bees to support its production. But it works both ways. Big beekeepers are so dependent on payments from almond pollination that a disruption would remove much of their incentive to keep so many colonies—or even their ability to stay in business at all. The near-term outlook is pretty good for both US almond growers and beekeepers, but with our almonds concentrated in a single area, the industry seems vulnerable to things like disease, climate change, and natural disasters. It’s also easy to imagine another country might have its own plans to reduce the world’s reliance on California almonds (looking at you again, China).

For now, commercial beekeepers can count on big checks from pollination, and almond growers can count on even bigger checks from food processors and exporters. But there could be a shake-up coming in our lifetimes (did I mention many of the almond trees now being planted are self-pollinating?). This could ultimately lead to a drastic decline in our honey bee population, similar to what happened after World War II when the government stopped subsidizing beekeepers. I haven’t decided yet if this would be a good or bad thing…while I’m not a huge fan of large-scale commercial beekeeping, the demise of those operations would greatly reduce money for things like honey bee advocacy, habitat preservation, scientific research, and development of bee-related products. Arguably, it could also improve the health of what would remain of the bee population by putting an end to the mass migration into a concentrated area each year, where pests and diseases are shared between colonies that would otherwise never be in contact. In the meantime, I’ll try to keep my homegrown line of bees healthy and happy, my tiny little bit of land pollinator-friendly, and my honey flowing.

Making Beeswax Candles

January 5, 2019 Eric Miller
Basic equipment and table layout for making beeswax candles

Basic equipment and table layout for making beeswax candles

One of the fun things about being a beekeeper in a northern climate is the annual winter recess. It’s an opportunity to relax a little, evaluate last year’s mistakes and successes, plan the next year, and make stuff. And there are plenty of things to make. Hives, hive stands, fondant, and bee club presentations are all things I end up spending at least a little time on each winter. But the most fun winter project for me is making candles. I get all my capping wax cleaned and melted into blocks in the summertime using a homemade solar melter; that means I can spend a pleasant weekend each winter transforming that clean material into candles—an underrated product of the hive, if you ask me.

Below is a basic how-to for making candles out your beeswax, with links to some of the items you’ll need. Before you get started, I highly recommend you watch this great video by Booger Hill Bee Company. He does a first-rate job explaining his process.

How To Make Beeswax Candles

Step 1: Use a double-boiler and burner to melt your wax. If the top pot on your double-boiler doesn’t have a good pouring lip, you’ll also need a pouring pot for filling your molds. (TIP: Don’t use the same pots you use to cook food. Instead, go to a thrift store and find used pots for pennies on the dollar.)

Step 2: Thread your wick through the candle mold. For the 10” colonial tapers shown here, you need #2/0 square wick. There are special needles available to thread wicks through shorter molds; however, tall molds like these tapers may require you to pull the wick through with a piece of wire. Slide the end of the wick into a bobby pin, pull it snug, and center it in the mold. (TIP: Different types of candles require different types of wicks, so be sure you buy the correct wick for your chosen mold.)

Step 3: Put a couple short blasts of mold release spray into your mold.

A finished 10-inch colonial taper candle

A finished 10-inch colonial taper candle

Step 4: Put a rubber band around the top of your mold (which is really the bottom of the candle). These molds have slits that allow you to remove the candle after it’s cooled, so the rubber band ensures these slits are closed tightly and evenly.

Step 5: Pour your melted wax into the mold, filling it to the top. The wax may shrink a bit as it cools, resulting in a “pothole” at the top of the mold. I typically come back and fill this hole with more wax to make sure I don’t have hollow bases on my candles.

Step 6: Remove the candle from the mold. Once your candle is completely cooled (I go away and do other things, and then come back in about an hour), remove the rubber band. Pull the mold apart at the splits, grab the wick at the top of the mold (bottom of the candle) and firmly pull it straight out.

Step 7: Reset for the next candle. When you pull the candle from the mold in Step 6, you’ll also pull a new section of wick through the mold (this is great, because you don’t have to use the wire to thread wick for each candle). Use scissors to cut the wick so there’s 1/2 inch sticking out the top of the candle. Carefully pull the bobby pin out of the finished candle and attach it to the new section of wick. Then simply repeat the process starting at Step 3!

10 hours of homemade light

10 hours of homemade light

I find these colonial tapers to be perfect for home use, as they throw good light and burn for about 10 hours. Plus, in my opinion, they have a traditional, classy aesthetic that can’t be matched by tea lights, animal molds, etc. Each candle uses less than 3 oz of wax, so even hobby beekeepers have enough wax most years to make candles for gifts, emergency lighting, table settings, or to burn on cold winter nights while they’re planning the next beekeeping season.

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Previous Posts

  • 2023
    • Dec 24, 2023 Should I Wrap My Hives for Winter?
    • Jan 2, 2023 Can Hobby Beekeepers Make Money?
  • 2022
    • Jun 18, 2022 The Impossible Task of Putting on Gloves with Sweaty Hands
    • Apr 17, 2022 Habitat, Habitat, Habitat
  • 2021
    • Dec 5, 2021 Best Gifts for Beekeepers, 2021
    • Sep 26, 2021 Why I Like Seeing Mites in My Hives
    • Jul 31, 2021 How to Extract Honey
    • Jun 13, 2021 Knowing When to Pull Honey Supers
    • Apr 11, 2021 Improving the Odds of Winter Survival
    • Mar 13, 2021 Oxalic Acid Approved for Use With Honey Supers
    • Jan 23, 2021 Your Beekeeping Calendar
  • 2020
    • Nov 21, 2020 Creating a Native Flower Garden
    • Oct 17, 2020 Best Gifts for Beekeepers, 2020
    • Aug 29, 2020 Beekeeping as a Gateway to Conservationism
    • Jun 13, 2020 Moving a Swarm into a Nearby Hive
    • May 3, 2020 Easy Solar Wax Melter
    • Apr 30, 2020 Invasion of the Asian Giant Hornet
    • Mar 18, 2020 A Quarantined Beekeeper
    • Feb 2, 2020 Skunk Fence
  • 2019
    • Dec 16, 2019 Easy Honey Bee Feeding Stations
    • Nov 17, 2019 Is Honey Vegan?
    • Nov 2, 2019 Best Gifts for Beekeepers, 2019
    • Oct 11, 2019 Mite Bomb!
    • Aug 11, 2019 Beekeeping is Backbreaking Work
    • Jun 15, 2019 Tracking Bloom Dates for Better Beekeeping
    • May 24, 2019 How Many Bee Stings Would it Take to Kill You?
    • Apr 26, 2019 Painted Hive Bricks
    • Mar 23, 2019 Swarm Traps Deployed
    • Feb 18, 2019 If Honey Were Firewood
    • Feb 2, 2019 Migrants: Honey Bees in the Almond Trees
    • Jan 5, 2019 Making Beeswax Candles
  • 2018
    • Nov 30, 2018 Best Gifts for Beekeepers, 2018
    • Nov 12, 2018 Keeping Entrances Free of Snow
    • Oct 20, 2018 Controlling Hive Moisture in the Winter
    • Sep 29, 2018 Goldenrod: Flower of Last Resort?
    • Aug 18, 2018 Are Wild Bees Healthier Than Kept Bees?
    • Jul 21, 2018 Honey is Thirsty
    • Jul 4, 2018 How to Split a Hive (Or Raise a Queen in a Queenless Colony)
    • May 31, 2018 The Sweetest of Clovers
    • May 17, 2018 How to Spot a Honey Flow
    • May 5, 2018 Having a Plan
    • Apr 28, 2018 Deep Deep vs Deep Medium
    • Apr 21, 2018 Specialists
    • Apr 5, 2018 Red Handed
    • Mar 24, 2018 How Bees Fly in Cold Weather
    • Mar 13, 2018 Survivor
    • Mar 2, 2018 Bee Smart Feeder
    • Feb 20, 2018 Catching Bees with a Swarm Trap
    • Feb 18, 2018 Skunk at the Bee Hive
    • Jan 27, 2018 Diagnosing a Winter Dead Out
    • Jan 21, 2018 Horrible Decision Yields Horrible Results
    • Jan 11, 2018 Rotten
    • Jan 11, 2018 Alive
  • 2017
    • Dec 29, 2017 Making Mead
    • Dec 26, 2017 First Test of My Bee Hive Snow Visors
    • Dec 22, 2017 Uh Oh...
    • Dec 15, 2017 A Rafter of Turkeys
    • Dec 8, 2017 Cold Fondant
    • Dec 1, 2017 Bee Paralysis Virus and What I'm Doing About It
    • Nov 25, 2017 Bees in a Construction Zone
    • Nov 18, 2017 Trees for Bees
    • Nov 13, 2017 Butt in the Air, Beekeeper Beware
    • Nov 8, 2017 We Like Our Animals Furry
    • Nov 7, 2017 Total Mite Load Recalculation
    • Nov 7, 2017 Supplemental Feeding
    • Nov 7, 2017 Counting Mite Falls
    • Nov 7, 2017 MiteCalculator.com Featured on Popular Beekeeping Podcast
    • Nov 7, 2017 Winterizing With Snow Visors
    • Nov 7, 2017 Two-Wheeled Honey Deliveries
    • Nov 7, 2017 Bees and Water
    • Nov 7, 2017 Storing Used Frames
    • Nov 7, 2017 Bees Working Cosmos Flowers

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